Pastry
How to make a flaky pie crust
Cold fat, just enough ice water and as little mixing as you can manage. Why each step makes a pie crust flaky instead of tough, from extension guides.
Published
01
What
Utah State University Extension describes pie pastry as three basic ingredients, flour, fat and liquid, that together decide how tender, flaky, crisp and brown the crust is. How it turns out depends on the quality of those ingredients, their proportions and the way you handle them.
Flaky means layered. Utah State Extension says flakiness comes from small particles of fat coated with moistened flour, then flattened into thin layers as the dough is rolled. It depends on whether the fat is solid or melted, how firm it is, the type of flour, how much water you add, how much and how you mix, and how many times you roll the dough.
Tender means it breaks easily instead of fighting back. The same guide ties tenderness to the amount and distribution of gluten, the type of flour and fat, the temperature of the ingredients, how much fat and liquid there is for the flour, and how much the dough is stirred. The goal is both: tender and flaky. Overworking the dough strengthens the gluten and makes a tough crust (Utah State Extension).
Utah State Extension sorts pastry fats into solid fats (lard, hydrogenated shortening), softer fats (butter, margarine) and liquid fats (oils). Solid fats make a flakier crust, though oil can still make an acceptable one. Too much fat makes pastry crumbly and greasy. Utah State’s range is 1/4 to 1/3 cup of fat for each cup of flour.
The Iowa State lab manual ranks fats by shortening power, their ability to limit gluten: oil first, then lard, then shortening, then butter or margarine. Because lard has more shortening power, a recipe needs less lard than shortening. Read together, the two sources show the trade-off: oil limits gluten most, which helps tenderness, but liquid fat gives up the separate solid pieces that make flakes.
Iowa State Extension’s view of the choice: lard, butter, shortening, oil or a mix all work, and everyone has a favorite.
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Why (ELI5)
ELI5
Iowa State University Extension gives fat two jobs. First, it coats the flour particles, which keeps too much gluten from forming. Second, during baking the pea-size pieces of fat melt and release steam, which lifts little pockets in the dough into flaky layers. Both Iowa State and Utah State say solid fats make a flakier crust than melted or liquid fats, and that chilled fat gives the best results.
Cold keeps the fat in separate pieces until the oven does its work. Iowa State Extension calls cold fat and cold water the most important rule: butter and shortening can go straight from the refrigerator, other fats should chill at least 15 minutes, and the water should be iced, without ice cubes going into the dough. Utah State suggests refrigerating all the ingredients first, even the flour.
Water is what lets gluten form. Utah State Extension says fat waterproofs the flour particles so water has a hard time mixing with the flour, which holds back gluten. You need only enough liquid to moisten the flour, usually 2 to 3 tablespoons per cup of flour, ice cold and added a little at a time (Utah State Extension). The Iowa State food lab manual sums up the jobs: flour gives structure, solid fat limits gluten development, water hydrates, and salt is for taste.
Extra water plus extra mixing is the recipe for a tough crust. Utah State notes that too little fat makes the water hard to stir in, and too much mixing then develops too much gluten. For what gluten is and why mixing builds it, see the gluten ELI5. Bread is the opposite goal: there you develop gluten on purpose, as in how to proof dough.
Flour choice works the same way. Utah State gives all-purpose flour about 10 to 12 percent protein and pastry flour about 9 percent; more protein means stronger, faster gluten as the dough is worked. Iowa State Extension says all-purpose flour is all you need, while cake flour has too little gluten and bread flour too much.
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How
How to make a flaky pie crust, step by step
- 01Chill everything. Cold fat and ice water matter most (Iowa State Extension). Utah State also chills the flour.
- 02Mix the flour and salt. Utah State says salt or sugar is there for flavor only and suggests about 1/2 teaspoon per cup of flour.
- 03Cut in the fat. Use a pastry blender, a fork, two knives or your fingertips (Utah State). Iowa State presses the fat pieces flat with the fingers. Do not rush: Utah State says a uniform mix of fat and flour gives a more evenly tender and flaky crust. How far to go differs by source: Utah State’s guide says the mix should look like coarse cornmeal, while its own savory crust recipe and the Iowa State lab manual stop when the fat is the size of small peas.
- 04Add ice water 1 tablespoon at a time. Sprinkle it over the flour and stir in a wide circle after each addition (Utah State). Stop when the dough holds together in large lumps, or looks shaggy: it holds when squeezed but is not sticky or crumbly (Iowa State).
- 05Shape a disc, wrap it and chill it. Utah State suggests 1 to 2 hours, so the fat hardens again and the gluten relaxes, or overnight for big batches. Iowa State says the dough can be used right away or chilled for 30 minutes, and dough chilled longer may need a short rest on the counter before it will roll.
- 06Roll from the center out on a lightly floured surface, giving the dough a quarter turn as you go (Iowa State). Utah State rolls to 1/8 inch and makes the bottom crust about 2 1/2 inches wider than the top of the pan. Iowa State gives 1/8 to 1/16 inch and 1 to 2 inches wider than the pie plate.
- 07Ease it into the pan without stretching. Utah State says stretching the dough and rerolling scraps can both make the crust shrink in the oven. Patch small tears with a fingertip of water (Iowa State).
- 08Vent a double-crust pie. Cut small openings in the top crust so steam can escape (Utah State, Iowa State). Utah State says moistening the edge of the bottom crust helps the two crusts seal.
- 09Bake as your recipe directs. Utah State says the temperature depends on the pie, and gives one common pattern: 425 degrees F for the first 15 to 20 minutes, then 350 degrees F for longer bakes.
These steps follow Utah State and Iowa State Extension. Use the amounts in your recipe; where a source gives a number, it is named.
Make it ahead for Thanksgiving
Utah State Extension says pie dough wrapped tightly in plastic keeps up to 2 days in the refrigerator or up to 2 months in the freezer. Thaw frozen dough before rolling. For a double-crust pie, Iowa State suggests keeping one disc chilled while you roll the other.
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Common mistakes
Sources
- Utah State University Extension (Utah County), The Art of Pie Making (Pantry 2 Plate, Nov 2011)
- Iowa State University Extension and Outreach AnswerLine (Marlene Geiger), Pie Baking: Simple Ingredients and Equipment
- Iowa State University Extension and Outreach AnswerLine (Marlene Geiger), Pie Baking: Crust Perfection
- Iowa State University FSHN 1150 Food Preparation Lab Manual, 13.1 Pie and Pastry Introduction