Sauce

How to brown butter (and why it works)

Brown butter is butter cooked until its milk solids toast. Cook until the water boils off and the solids turn golden brown, then stop before it goes black.

Published

01

What

Brown butter (French beurre noisette, “hazel” butter) is melted butter cooked past the point where the water is gone and the milk solids toast. McGee: hazel butter is cooked until golden brown; beurre noir (“black” butter) until dark brown — truly black butter is acrid. The flavor is nutty; cooks use it on vegetables, fish, and in baked goods.

02

Why (ELI5)

ELI5

Butter holds water plus milk solids (sugar and protein). McGee: heat to about 250°F / 120°C until the water boils off; then those milk-sugar and protein molecules brown and make new aromas. That is Maillard-style browning (reducing sugars + amino compounds), not caramelization alone. Caramelization is sugar breaking down mostly on its own, usually at higher heat — see Maillard reaction ELI5 and the contrast on how to caramelize onions.

03

How

How to brown butter

  1. 01Melt the butter and keep it cooking.
  2. 02Let the water boil off; the white milk solids begin to brown.
  3. 03Stop when the solids are golden brown (dark brown for beurre noir).
  4. 04Use warm, or cool it if the recipe says so.

Melt the butter and keep cooking it. McGee’s cues: the water boils off, then the white milk solids turn golden brown and the butter takes on a nutty flavor. Stop at golden brown for beurre noisette, or dark brown for beurre noir. Truly black butter is acrid. If a recipe wants “browned butter, cooled,” cool it as the recipe asks before mixing.

McGee’s sauce note: vinegar or lemon juice “should be added only after the butter has cooled below the boiling point; otherwise the cold liquid will cause spattering and the lemon solids may brown.”

04

Common mistakes

Cooking past dark brown: McGee says truly black butter is acrid. Adding lemon or vinegar while the butter is still violently hot (McGee: cool below boiling first).